Whether it’s a road race, marathon, sports league, school competition, or company event, custom medals are a great way to recognize both top performers and everyone who takes part.

But when an event includes first, second, and third place along with finisher or participation awards, how do you make each one easy to tell apart?

A common approach is to use gold, silver, and bronze finishes for the top three places. For finishers, participants, or commemorative pieces, black nickel, antique silver, or another finish can help create a clear visual difference.

In this guide, we’ll look at how to design awards for each placement and how to choose the right style for different types of participants.

What Are Gold, Silver, and Bronze Medals Made Of?

A lot of people assume gold, silver, and bronze medals are made from the metals they’re named after, but that’s usually not the case. Even modern Olympic gold medals aren’t solid gold. They’re made mostly from silver that’s at least 92.5% pure, then coated with 6 grams of pure gold. Bronze medals are typically made from a copper-based alloy.

For commercial events and custom medals, the material you choose usually comes down to the design, production method, and budget.

Zinc alloy is the most common option and the one most of our customers choose. It works especially well for detailed shapes, raised designs, and cutouts.

Iron costs less and works well for simpler designs or projects with a tighter budget.

Copper or brass costs more, but it feels heavier in the hand and gives the finished piece a more premium metal feel.

How to Design Medals for Different Placements

1. The Top Three Can Share One Mold

A common way to do this is to use the same mold for first, second, and third place, then change the plating:

• First place: Polished Gold
• Second place: Polished Silver
• Third place: Copper or Antique Bronze

This keeps the whole set consistent while still making each placement easy to tell apart.

If changing the plating alone doesn’t feel like enough, you can also switch up the enamel colors. For example, red for first, blue for second, and green for third, with matching ribbon colors.

You can also add 1st, 2nd, 3rd, names, numbers, or dates with laser engraving without changing the original mold.

2. Finisher Awards Can Use the Same Base Design Too

If your finisher medals use the same mold as the top-three awards, you can still make them feel different through the finish.

For example, while first, second, and third place use gold, silver, and bronze, the finisher version could use black nickel, antique silver, or another metal finish. You can also keep more of the metal exposed, use fewer enamel colors, and pair it with an event-themed ribbon that includes FINISHER.

That way, you can give the finisher medal its own look without making a new mold, while also keeping production costs under control.

When Do You Need a New Mold?

If the medal’s shape, size, thickness, raised details, or fixed design elements change, you’ll usually need a new mold.

Think of the mold like a stamp. If 2026 is built into the design as raised or recessed text, that year is fixed into the mold.

So when 2027 comes around, even if everything else stays exactly the same, changing 2026 to 2027 would still require a new mold.

How Many of Each Medal Should You Order?

It helps to calculate placement medals and finisher medals separately, since they’re based on different numbers.

Placement Medals

For gold, silver, and bronze, start with the number of events and divisions.

Formula:

Number of events × number of gender/age divisions × 3

For example, if you have 2 events and each one has a men’s and women’s division:

2 × 2 × 3 = 12 medals

That means 4 gold, 4 silver, and 4 bronze.

It’s also a good idea to add an extra 2%–5% for ties, damaged pieces, or keepsakes for organizers and sponsors.

Finisher Medals

For finisher medals, ordering based on total registrations alone can leave you with too many, since not everyone who signs up will show up or finish.

A simple way to estimate the quantity is:

Registration cap × expected attendance rate × expected finish rate + 5% extra

For example, if your registration cap is 1,000, you expect 90% of runners to show up, and 95% of those runners to finish:

1,000 × 90% × 95% = 855

Add a 5% buffer, and you’d want to order about 898–900 medals.

That small extra amount gives you some room for last-minute registrations, counting errors, or damaged medals without overordering by too much.

Choose a Reliable Medal Supplier

Your medal supplier is part of the event planning process too. A great design doesn’t help much if the medals don’t arrive before event day.

At VeperPins, production can be completed in as little as 5 days, and there’s no minimum order quantity. Whether you’re planning a small local competition or a large event, you can order based on what you actually need.

Planning your next event? Take a look around our website — we’d be happy to help you get the medals ready and keep things on track.

Custom-made patches don’t have one set price. The cost mainly depends on the size, quantity, and type you choose.

For example, 100 embroidered patches at 3 inches may cost around $3 each, while ordering 1,000 can bring the price down to about $0.63 each. PVC options are priced differently—a 3-inch order of 100 pieces may cost around $4.11 each.

So even at the same size, the price can vary quite a bit depending on the style and order quantity. If you just want a general idea of pricing by size and quantity, you can check our pricing page. If you already have a design ready, you can also contact us for an exact quote.

In this article, we’ll explain what affects the final price and where you may be able to save money without sacrificing the final result.

What Affects the Cost of Custom Patches?

Several factors can affect the price of custom patches, including:

01 Patch Size

02 Patch Type

03 Order Quantity

04 Backing Option

05 Border Style

06 Design Complexity

07 Rush Production

How Patch Size Affects the Price

Larger patches usually cost more. The reason is pretty simple: they use more material and take longer to produce.

• Material use: As the size goes up, so does the amount of fabric, thread, leather, or PVC needed. The exact difference also depends on the shape and the type you choose.
• Production time: With embroidered designs, a larger area usually means more stitches and longer machine time. Woven and PVC styles are made differently, but increasing the size still adds to material and production costs.
• Weight and structure: Very large pieces may need a thicker backing to help them hold their shape, and the finished product will naturally weigh more. If they’re going on jackets, uniforms, or bags, the fabric also needs to support that extra weight. Since much of this type of production is handled overseas, including in China and Vietnam, heavier orders can also cost more to ship. That can affect the total amount you pay.

Common Sizes and Price Ranges

• Small (2–3 inches): A common choice for hats, shirts, and bags. For larger orders, some styles can start at around $1.20 each.
• Medium (4–7 inches): Often used on jackets, uniform sleeves, and larger logos. These usually cost more than smaller sizes because they require more material and production time.
• Large (10–12 inches): Common for motorcycle club back patches, team designs, and large jacket pieces. Because of the larger surface area, some styles can still cost $11 or more per piece even at higher quantities.

Round and square designs are usually easy to measure. For custom shapes, the size is generally based on the longest side.

For example, if a custom-shaped design is listed as 4 inches, that usually means its widest or tallest point measures 4 inches. It does not mean the entire piece is 4 inches in every direction. That’s why two designs can both be listed as 4 inches but still use different amounts of material and end up with slightly different prices.

How Different Patch Types Affect the Price

Even at the same size and order quantity, the price can change quite a bit depending on the type you choose.

Here’s a quick comparison based on 100-piece orders from VeperPins:

Per-piece pricing for 100-piece custom patch orders by type and size.

Type	2 inch	3 inch	4 inch
75% Embroidered	$1.52/pc	$2.06/pc	$2.70/pc
Woven	$2.21/pc	$2.82/pc	$3.52/pc
Chenille	$3.26/pc	$4.20/pc	$6.00/pc
Printed	$2.31/pc	$2.94/pc	$3.63/pc
PU Leather	$2.38/pc	$2.99/pc	$3.69/pc
PVC	$3.17/pc	$4.11/pc	$5.91/pc

The difference mainly comes down to the materials and how each style is made. For example, at 2 inches and 100 pieces, 75% embroidery costs $1.52 each, chenille costs $3.26 each, and PVC costs $3.17 each.

What Other Options Can Increase the Cost?

Backing and border choices can also affect the final price.

Iron-On Backing

About +$0.12/pc.

Velcro / Hook & Loop

Hook only is around +$0.38/pc; Hook + Loop is about +$0.58/pc.

Adhesive Backing

About +$0.12/pc.

Merrowed Border

Around +$0.16/pc.

Laser Cut / Heat Cut Border

Usually around +$0.10–$0.15/pc, though more detailed shapes can cost a little more.

Complex Shapes

Most designs don’t have a separate custom-shape fee, but extra cutting work may add roughly +$0.10–$0.20/pc.

Rush Production

Usually around 15%–25% of the order. On a $2.00 piece, that works out to about +$0.30–$0.50/pc.

Special Packaging

Backing cards or individual packaging may add around +$0.20–$0.35/pc. Boxes can be closer to +$0.60–$1.00+/pc.

How to Lower Your Costs

1. 01

   Keep the design simple. Smaller sizes, cleaner shapes, and fewer complicated details are usually easier and cheaper to produce.

2. 02

   Use the right process for the artwork. Not every design needs full embroidery. Woven or printed patches can be a better fit for small details, fine text, or gradients.

3. 03

   Check different quantity breaks. Compare 100, 300, and 500 pieces before ordering. Sometimes a slightly larger order only adds a little to the total but brings the unit price down a lot.

4. 04

   Approve the artwork carefully before sampling. Make sure the size, colors, and layout are right first so you don’t pay for unnecessary revisions or extra samples.

5. 05

   Skip extras you don’t need. Velcro, specialty threads, 3D embroidery, rush production, and custom packaging can all raise the price. Standard options are usually enough for most orders.

Custom Patches Calculator

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Prices are estimates based on the selected patch type, size, and quantity. Backing, borders, rush production, packaging, and other options may affect the final quote.

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Get the Right Custom Patch Without Overpaying

No matter what type of custom patch you choose, we look at two things first: your budget and how the finished patch needs to look and perform. At VeperPins, we won’t push extra finishes, backing options, or production methods you don’t actually need just to raise the price.

With more than 20 years of production experience, we know where it makes sense to spend a little more and where you can save without hurting the final result. If you already have your artwork and quantity, send them over. We’ll help you choose the right setup for how the patch will actually be used and give you an accurate quote.

When you’re making a custom patch, there’s more to think about than the artwork, size, and backing. The edge finish matters too.

There are three common options: merrowed borders, laser-cut edges, and heat-cut edges. Simple shapes like circles and squares usually work well with a merrowed border. If the outline has a lot of curves, sharp corners, or an unusual shape, laser cutting or heat cutting is usually a better fit.

The finished look can be pretty different depending on which one you use, so let’s look at where each option works best.

Merrowed Border

A merrowed border is sewn around the outside edge to hold the fabric and stitching together. It helps prevent fraying and gives the patch a stronger finish.

You’ll usually see this style on simple shapes like circles, squares, rectangles, and ovals. The edge is thicker and slightly raised, so it has that classic embroidered patch look.

The tradeoff is that it does not always sit as flat on soft clothing or curved areas like hats and backpacks. On very small designs, the border can also take up too much space and make the artwork feel crowded.

For patches worn close to the skin, such as around a collar or cuff, the thicker edge can sometimes feel a little rough.

Laser Cut

Laser cutting works well when the outline has more detail. Sharp corners, tight curves, small cutouts, and unusual shapes are much easier to follow accurately with a laser.

As it cuts, the heat seals the fabric edge at the same time, which helps keep it from fraying. Since there is no thick stitched border around the outside, the finished edge stays thin and clean.

Polyester and nylon usually work well with this method. Very light fabrics can sometimes show a faint yellow or scorched line along the edge, and cotton is more likely to darken or become brittle if too much heat is used.

Heat Cut

Heat cutting uses a hot blade to trim away the extra fabric after the embroidery is finished. The heat seals the edge while it cuts, so there is less chance of fraying.

It gives you a thin, flat edge without the raised look of a merrowed border. For many irregular shapes, this is a simple and practical option.

The main limitation is precision. Very small corners, tight curves, or tiny cutouts are harder to control with a hot knife. If the heat or cutting speed is off, you may also see small melted spots or slightly rough areas.

Traditional hot-knife cutting can also depend more on templates or manual control, so a laser is usually the better choice when the outline gets more complicated.

The edge may feel a little firm after cutting, but the overall patch still stays fairly light and flat.

How to Choose

For simple shapes like circles, squares, and ovals, embroidered patches usually look best with a merrowed border. It gives the edge a thicker finish and holds up well over time.

Custom shapes are a little different. If the outline has a lot of curves, sharp corners, or small details, heat cutting or laser cutting usually makes more sense. A basic custom shape is often fine with a heat cut, while more detailed outlines are easier to keep clean with a laser.

Woven patches are thinner, so laser cutting is also a common choice when you want the edge to follow the design closely.

One thing that’s easy to miss is spacing around the outside. On a very small patch, a merrowed border can take up more room than you expect. For custom shapes, it’s also better to leave a little space around the edge for cutting instead of deciding on the finish after the artwork is already done.

Tell Us What You Need

Not sure whether to go with a merrowed border, heat cut, or laser cut? Send us your design, size, and how you plan to use the patch, and we can help you figure out which edge makes the most sense.

At VeperPins, we handle everything from artwork approval and production to shipping. You don’t need to know every production detail before you order—just tell us what you need, and we’ll help you from there.

Custom patches come in a lot of different styles. At VeperPins, you can choose from embroidered, woven, printed, PVC, and several other options, with embroidered patches being one of the most popular.

But once you’ve picked the patch style, there’s usually another question: What kind of backing should you choose?

Iron-on, Velcro, sew-on, adhesive—each option works a little differently and is better suited for certain clothing, gear, or uses. Choosing the wrong one can make the patch harder to attach or less practical for how you plan to use it.

In this guide, we’ll walk through 8 common patch backing options, what each one is best for, and the pros and cons to consider, so you can choose the right backing for your project.

8 Patch Backing Options You Can Choose From

1. No Backing

No backing keeps the patch in its most natural form. Nothing extra is added to the back, so you can still see the fabric base and the embroidery stitches.

It’s a simple, flexible option for patches that will be permanently sewn in place. It works especially well on clothing, fabric bags, and other textile items where stitching is already part of the plan.

Best for: Garment production, uniforms, DIY projects, fabric bags, and other sew-on applications.

2. Iron-On Backing

Iron-on backing adds a heat-activated adhesive layer to the back of the patch. Apply heat with an iron or heat press, and the adhesive melts and bonds to the fabric.

It’s a good choice if you want a clean, secure attachment without sewing. Once applied properly, the patch sits flat against the fabric without changing the look of the embroidery on the front.

Best for: Denim jackets, cotton clothing, canvas bags, and other smooth, heat-safe fabrics.

3. Adhesive Backing

Adhesive backing is all about convenience. We can use 3M adhesive or standard double-sided adhesive, depending on the project.

Just peel off the protective liner and press the patch onto the surface. No heat and no sewing needed. It works well on smooth, hard surfaces like phone cases, notebooks, laptops, tumblers, and some bags, making it a handy option for temporary decoration or quick use.

Best for: Phone cases, notebooks, laptops, tumblers, packaging, displays, and other smooth surfaces.

4. Hook Backing

Hook backing is the rough side of hook-and-loop fastener, with small hooks across the surface. It’s commonly used for tactical patches, name tapes, and morale patches.

Many uniforms, tactical bags, hats, and pieces of gear already have a soft loop panel built in. If yours does, hook backing on the patch is all you need.

It also makes patches easy to remove and replace, which is useful for names, ranks, units, job titles, or designs that change regularly.

If your gear doesn’t have a loop panel, hook backing by itself won’t stay in place. The exposed hooks can also catch on sweaters, knits, and other soft fabrics.

Best for: Tactical patches, name tapes, military and police patches, morale patches, outdoor bags, PVC patches, and patches that need to be changed often.

If your gear already has a loop panel, hook backing is usually enough.

5. Loop

Loop is the soft side of a hook-and-loop system and is designed to pair with hook material.

In most cases, loop is sewn onto clothing, uniforms, bags, or gear rather than added to the back of the patch itself.

For example, if your jacket doesn’t already have a hook-and-loop area, you can sew a piece of loop onto it. Any patch with hook backing can then be attached, removed, and swapped out whenever needed.

Loop works more like the base that your hook-backed patches attach to. Using it as the actual patch backing is much less common.

Best for: Uniforms, backpacks, tactical gear, and products that need a dedicated area for interchangeable patches.

6. Hook & Loop

If your clothing or gear doesn’t already have a hook-and-loop panel but you still want the patch to be removable, Hook & Loop gives you both pieces.

The patch comes with hook backing, along with a matching piece of loop. Sew the loop piece onto the garment, bag, or gear first, then attach the patch.

This way, you don’t have to find a separate loop panel that matches the size of your patch, and you can easily swap patches later.

If your uniform or backpack already has a loop panel, you usually only need hook backing.

Best for: Removable sleeve patches, tactical gear, uniforms, workwear, and items that don’t already have a hook-and-loop area.

7. Safety Pin Backing

Safety pin backing is useful when the patch only needs to be worn temporarily.

A safety pin is attached to the back, so the patch can be pinned directly to a jacket, shirt, or bag without ironing or permanently sewing it in place.

It works well for events, trade shows, parties, and souvenir patches that may only be worn a few times.

Because the pin has to go through the fabric, it’s not a good choice for silk, very thin T-shirts, or materials that can easily show pinholes. Larger or heavier patches may also sag or rotate while being worn.

Best for: Event patches, souvenirs, trade show giveaways, jackets, bags, and other temporary-wear projects.

8. Key Ring

A key ring isn’t technically a patch backing. Instead, it turns the patch into a small hanging accessory.

A metal ring or connector is added to the top of the patch, so it can hang from keys, backpacks, zippers, or other everyday items.

This works especially well with smaller embroidered or woven patches and is a good option for branded merchandise, event giveaways, and souvenirs.

Larger patches can feel bulky when used this way, so key rings usually work best with small to medium-sized designs.

Best for: Branded merchandise, event giveaways, souvenirs, backpack charms, and keychains.

Common Mistakes When Choosing a Patch Backing

1

Check the Fabric Before Choosing Iron-On

Denim and cotton are usually fine, but nylon, waterproof fabrics, and some synthetics don’t handle heat well. Check the care label before you iron anything on.

2

Don’t Rely on Adhesive Alone for Clothes You Wash a Lot

Uniforms and workwear get worn and washed often, so iron-on adhesive can start lifting around the edges over time. A few stitches around the border will help it stay put.

3

Hook Backing Needs a Loop Surface

Hook backing won’t stick directly to regular fabric. If your backpack or uniform doesn’t already have a loop panel, hook backing by itself won’t do much.

4

Adhesive Backing Is Better for Short-Term Use

It’s handy for events, displays, and packaging, but it’s not a great choice for clothing that gets bent, rubbed, and washed all the time.

5

Bigger Patches Need More Support

Safety pins and key rings work well on smaller patches. Once the patch gets too large or heavy, it can sag, twist, or just feel awkward to use.

Choose a Backing That Fits the Way You’ll Use It

There isn’t one backing that works best for every patch. It really depends on where the patch is going and how it will be used. A work uniform, tactical bag, event giveaway, and display piece all have different needs.

As a custom patch supplier, VeperPins offers a range of patch styles and backing options. If you’re not sure which one fits your project, just get in touch. Tell us how you plan to use the patch, and our team can point you toward the option that makes the most sense.

If you look at fire department badges, helmets, and patches across the U.S., you’ll see the same four-armed cross shape again and again. A lot of people simply call it the Maltese Cross, but many of the symbols actually used by fire departments look closer to the Florian Cross, or to a firefighter-specific version that blends features of both.

They may look similar at first, but they’re not exactly the same. Their shapes are different, their histories are different, and they became connected to the fire service in different ways.

In this article, we’ll look at the key differences between the Maltese Cross and the Florian Cross, and why both have become such common design elements on firefighter challenge coins.

What Is the Maltese Cross?

The Maltese Cross is closely tied to the medieval Knights of St. John, later known as the Knights of Malta. Its traditional shape is made up of four V-shaped arms that meet in the center, creating eight distinct points.

So how did it become connected with the fire service? One widely told story says that the knights sometimes had to move through fire to rescue injured comrades during battle. Over time, that story helped connect the cross with values such as courage, protection, and sacrifice — qualities that also fit closely with the work firefighters do.

However, the Fire Fighters Association of Missouri points out that much of the popular story behind the firefighter Maltese Cross comes from long-standing oral tradition, and the real history is more complicated than the version that is often repeated.

So rather than treating it as a fire service symbol with one clear point of origin, it is more accurate to see it as a symbol that evolved over time and eventually became part of modern firefighter culture.

Because of its clean, symmetrical shape, the Maltese Cross also became a common outline for fire department emblems and commemorative coin designs.

What Is the Florian Cross?

The Florian Cross is another symbol you’ll often see in the fire service. It gets its name from St. Florian, a Roman officer who later became known as the patron saint of firefighters. Over time, his name and this cross became closely tied to firefighter tradition.

At a glance, the Florian Cross can look a lot like the Maltese Cross, but the shape is different. Its four arms are usually more rounded and curve outward, while a traditional Maltese Cross has straighter edges and sharper points.

Today, many fire departments use the Florian Cross in badges, logos, and other department graphics. The center is often filled with a helmet, axes, ladders, flames, or a station number, which is why this shape has become so closely associated with the fire service.

Maltese Cross vs. Florian Cross: What’s the Difference?

Feature	Maltese Cross	Florian Cross
Shape	Straighter sides with sharper, more pointed ends	More rounded, with curved and outward-flaring arms
Historical Connection	Associated with the Knights of St. John and later the Knights of Malta	Named after St. Florian, traditionally associated with firefighters
Fire Service Use	Widely recognized as a traditional firefighter symbol	Commonly seen in modern fire department badges, logos, and emblems
Challenge Coin Design	Works well for sharper, more traditional cross-shaped coin designs	Works well with department logos, station numbers, helmets, axes, and other fire service details

Why Do Fire Departments Use These Crosses on Challenge Coins?

any departments use these symbols on custom firefighter challenge coins because they already mean something to their members. They connect the coin to the department and to the courage, service, protection, and sacrifice that come with the job.

Protection and Courage

Firefighters often go in while everyone else is getting out. Whether it is a fire, rescue, or another emergency, facing danger and protecting people is simply part of the job. That is one reason these symbols are so closely associated with courage and protection.

Service

The job goes far beyond putting out fires. Crews also respond to rescues, medical emergencies, traffic accidents, and other calls in the community. Because of that, the symbol can also stand for service.

Honor and Remembrance

You will also see it used for retirements, service awards, department anniversaries, and memorials for fallen firefighters.

Department Identity

Many departments already use one of these designs in their logos, helmet shields, patches, or badges. Carrying the same look over to a coin helps it feel specific to that department instead of looking like a generic firefighter design.

They Work Well on Coins

A coin needs enough room for department names, numbers, and other details, and these shapes are easy to work with. They can sit in the center of a round design or become the shape of the piece itself.

How to Use a Maltese or Florian Cross on a Firefighter Coin

From the firefighter coin artwork we’ve worked with, we rarely see the Maltese Cross and Florian Cross used together in the same design. Most departments simply stick with the one that already appears in their logo, patch, or helmet shield.

1. Put the Cross in the Center

For a round coin, the cross can sit in the center with the logo, station number, engine number, or a firefighter helmet inside it.

The department name, city, year, or motto can go around the outer edge. This gives the layout more room and keeps the center from feeling crowded.

2. Make the Coin in the Shape of the Cross

If this symbol is already a major part of the department logo, the coin itself can follow the same outline.

This gives it a stronger look, but there’s less room on the four arms for small text or detailed artwork. In most cases, a simpler design keeps the shape easier to see and recognize.

3. Pair It With a Few Fire Service Elements

Helmets, crossed axes, fire trucks, ladders, flames, and the Thin Red Line can all work with it, but there’s no need to use everything at once.

We usually recommend keeping just one or two elements that really represent the department. That often gives the design more character than filling it with generic firefighter symbols.

4. Keep the Department’s Existing Design

If the department already uses a specific version on its logo, patch, or helmet shield, it usually makes sense to keep that same shape.

There’s no need to redraw it just to make it look more like a “standard” Maltese Cross or Florian Cross. Keeping the final coin consistent with the department’s existing identity is usually more important.

Keep the Coin True to the Department

Firefighters protect lives, property, and their communities every day, often working side by side with other emergency response teams. Whether it’s for recognizing a member, marking years of service, or remembering a special call, a custom firefighter coin can help preserve those moments.

But a coin that truly represents a department should be more than a collection of familiar fire service symbols. Its own logo, station number, engine number, important dates, or the cross it has used for years will usually make the design feel far more personal and recognizable.

Honor the Firefighters Who Serve Their Communities

We make custom challenge coins for fire departments, EMS teams, and other emergency service organizations. Send us your existing logo, badge, or design idea, and we can help you work out the right size, shape, and production method for the artwork.

Custom iron-on patches are an easy way to personalize clothing and accessories. You can use them on jackets, jeans, backpacks, workwear, and plenty of other fabric items.

But getting a patch to stick properly takes a little more than just pressing a hot iron on top. Too much heat can damage the fabric, while not enough heat or pressure can leave the patch peeling at the edges.

Here’s how to iron on a patch the right way, step by step.

Watch the quick tutorial

Before You Start, Make Sure Your Patch Can Be Ironed On

Not every patch can be applied with an iron. Whether it will work mostly depends on the backing.

If it has an iron-on backing, there will be a layer of heat-activated adhesive on the back. Once heated, the adhesive softens and bonds to the fabric. Embroidered, woven, and printed styles can all be made this way.

The material matters too. PVC, rubber, and other heat-sensitive options usually should not be pressed with a regular iron. Sew-on or Velcro attachment is often a better choice for those.

Leather also needs a little more care because it is more sensitive to heat. You generally should not use the same temperature and pressing time you would use for a standard embroidered patch.

Before you begin, check two things: what kind of backing it has and whether the material can handle the heat.

What You’ll Need to Iron On a Patch

Before you start, make sure you have:

• An iron-on patch
• A household iron
• The clothing or fabric you want to apply it to
• A thin cotton cloth or pressing cloth
• A flat, heat-resistant surface

Before using the iron, turn off the steam and use dry heat. Place a thin cloth over the patch before you start pressing. It’s also best to work on a firm, flat surface rather than a bed, couch, or anything too soft, so you can apply steady pressure.

How to Iron On a Patch: Step by Step

Step 1

Step 1: Prepare the Garment

Wash and dry the garment first, then lay it flat on a heat-resistant surface. Place the patch where you want it, with the adhesive side facing down, and turn off the steam setting on your iron.

Step 2

Step 2: Cover and Press

Place a thin cotton cloth or a piece of white paper over the patch to keep the iron from touching it directly and causing scorch marks or making the adhesive brittle. Set the iron to the right temperature for the fabric, then press down firmly for about 15–30 seconds.

Step 3

Step 3: Check the Edges

Lift the iron and check whether the edges are lying flat. If any part is lifting, press those areas again a few times to help secure them.

Step 4

Step 4: Let It Cool Before Testing

Wait until the patch has completely cooled before touching it or checking whether it has bonded properly. Moving it while it is still hot can make it come loose.

A Few Quick Tips

Thick Patches

If the patch is pretty thick, turn the garment inside out and press it from the back a few more times. That helps the adhesive stick better.

Patches With Sequins or Metallic Thread

Don’t press these too long from the front. Start from the back to get the patch in place, then lightly go over the edges from the front if needed.

Keep It From Peeling

If the garment gets washed a lot, it’s a good idea to add a few stitches around the edge after ironing. It’ll hold up better over time.

No Iron?

For smaller patches, a hair straightener can work too. Just heat and press the area a little at a time.

All Done

Once the patch has cooled completely and you’ve checked that it’s firmly attached, the garment is ready to wear.

Now you know how to iron on a patch. It doesn’t take much—just the right heat, enough pressure, and a little patience.

That’s it. Put it on and enjoy the new look.

Want Patches You Can Iron On?

If you’re ordering custom patches, you can choose an iron-on backing. VeperPins can check the material, size, and intended use to make sure it’s the right option.

Most challenge coin designs start with the same basic elements: artwork, text, plating, and shape. When people want something a little different, the first thought is usually to move beyond the standard round format and try a shield, square, triangle, or another custom shape.

But changing the shape isn’t the only option.

You can also add a real function, such as a bottle opener.

The idea isn’t to turn the piece into an everyday tool. It’s simply another way to make it more useful without taking away from what it was made to represent.

So what does a bottle opener actually add to a challenge coin, and when does it make sense? Here are a few things we look at when working on these designs.

Benefits of Adding a Bottle Opener to a Challenge Coin

Adding a bottle opener gives a challenge coin something it normally doesn’t have: a reason to be used, not just displayed.

Give a Collectible One More Use

A lot of challenge coins eventually end up in a display case, on a desk, or tucked into a collection. That’s exactly where many of them are meant to be.

Adding a bottle opener gives the piece another use.

At a barbecue, retirement dinner, unit get-together, company event, or wedding, someone may actually pull it out and open a drink with it.

It still carries the same meaning—it just has another reason to be used.

The bull-head design above is a good example.

Instead of starting with a standard round coin and adding an opener afterward, the opening is built into the space above the bull’s head and between the horns.

At first glance, it still reads as a complete bull-head design. The opener doesn’t take over the artwork.

That’s usually the better approach: get the design right first, then make the function feel like it belongs there.

For Giveaways, Being Useful Matters

If the coin is being handed out as a company gift, event giveaway, or branded item, usefulness matters even more.

In PPAI’s 2026 consumer research on branded merchandise, 55.2% of respondents said the main reason they keep a promotional product is because it’s useful in everyday life.

The study wasn’t specifically about challenge coins, but the takeaway is pretty straightforward: if a keepsake also does something useful, people have one more reason to hang onto it.

A standard anniversary coin can work perfectly well. But if the company also hosts employee parties, outdoor events, or customer gatherings, a bottle opener may make more sense than a display-only piece.

This round design shows how that can work without changing the feel of a traditional challenge coin.

The outer text, American flag, and center artwork still do most of the visual work. The opener is simply built into the bottom.

Take away the opening, and it would still look like a fairly traditional commemorative piece.

That approach works well when you want it to stay formal but still have a practical feature.

With Military, Police, and Firefighter Coins, the Story Comes First

Military, police, and firefighter challenge coins are different from ordinary promotional giveaways.

What gives them value is usually what they represent—a unit, a mission, years of service, a retirement, a promotion, or an experience shared by the people receiving them.

So if we’re working on a firefighter retirement coin, the department logo, Maltese cross, station number, name, and years of service all come before the bottle opener.

The Swiftwater Dive Rescue design handles that well.

They Work Well for Events Where People Are Already Hanging Out

Bottle openers make the most sense in places where people are already gathering.

Unit reunions, retirement dinners, fire station anniversaries, company parties, wedding receptions, brewery events, and team barbecues are all natural fits.

A regular commemorative coin may go straight into someone’s pocket after it’s handed out. A functional version might actually get used during the event.

And once someone pulls one out, people tend to notice it.

“Is that your unit coin?”

“Wait, that thing actually opens bottles?”

That little bit of interaction is something a functional design can add that a standard keepsake usually can’t.

There is one catch, though:

It actually has to work.

Opening a bottle puts real force on the metal. If the area around the cutout is too thin, the leverage point is wrong, or there isn’t enough room to get a good grip, a nice-looking rendering won’t matter much.

That’s why we don’t just check the logo, colors, and layout. We also look at the cutout itself, the amount of metal around it, where the force is going to land, and how it will feel in someone’s hand.

Corporate Coins Should Start With the Recipient

Companies use challenge coins for all kinds of projects—company anniversaries, employee recognition, sales kickoffs, product launches, trade shows, and customer gifts.

For those projects, one question is worth asking early:

What is the recipient actually going to do with this afterward?

If the company regularly hosts employee gatherings, outdoor events, customer functions, or simply has a more casual brand personality, adding a bottle opener can feel completely natural.

For a 20th anniversary, for example, the design might revolve around the company logo, a large “20,” and the anniversary years. If the logo or number already creates usable negative space, that area may even become part of the opening.

The point isn’t to add as many features as possible.

It’s to use one that makes sense for the brand, the occasion, and the people receiving it.

Wedding Bottle Openers Don’t Need Giant Names on the Front

Bottle openers are also popular as wedding favors, but this is one area where personalization can go too far.

A lot of them put something like:

JOHN & JESSICA
SEPTEMBER 21, 2026

That information matters to the couple. But once the day is over, the guest is still carrying around a keepsake from someone else’s wedding.

Reviews for personalized bottle openers on Etsy often mention two things people care about: whether they actually work and whether the design looks good enough to keep.

For a wedding bottle opener coin, we’d usually make the front a little more versatile. That might mean using:

• Couple initials
• A wedding monogram
• A family crest
• An illustration of the venue
• A floral pattern

The full names, date, and location can go on the back.

You still keep the important details, but the front doesn’t feel like a date card stamped onto a piece of metal.

The basic idea is simple: make something guests will want to keep, then work the wedding details into it.

When a Bottle Opener Is NOT the Right Choice

The Occasion Is Very Formal

Picture a formal command presentation, executive recognition event, or high-level commemorative ceremony.

A piece with an obvious bottle opener cutout may feel a little out of place.

For projects like these, a more traditional challenge coin is often the better fit.

The Design Is Already Packed

Some clients come to us specifically because their artwork is simple and they want to give it a little more character with a custom shape or bottle opener.

That can work well.

But if the design already has a logo, motto, names, dates, unit text, and several graphic elements, adding one can start eating into valuable space.

The Recipient Probably Won’t Use It

If the coin is mainly going to be collected or displayed—and there isn’t much connection to things like parties, barbecues, wedding receptions, or unit reunions—the added function may not bring much value.

In that case, there’s nothing wrong with keeping it traditional.

Bottle Opener Challenge Coin Design Ideas

There isn’t one correct place to put a bottle opener.

When we start a design, we look at the main artwork, how much text needs to fit, the overall shape, and how it will be held. From there, we can decide whether the opener belongs at the bottom, on the side, or inside the outline itself.

Round Coin With Bottom Opener

If you want to keep the look of a traditional round challenge coin, a bottom opener is usually one of the easiest layouts to work with.

It leaves the center open for a logo, badge, mascot, or main piece of artwork, while the outer ring can still hold a unit name, motto, or dates.

The main thing to watch is how far the cutout reaches into the center.

If it comes up too high, it starts stealing space from the artwork and can make the whole layout feel top-heavy.

Side Bottle Opener

A side opener makes sense when the center artwork is important or when the bottom is already being used for text or other elements.

Moving the opening to the left or right helps keep the middle intact.

The challenge is making that side cutout feel intentional.

If you simply remove a chunk from the edge of a round coin, it can look like something is missing.

Usually the surrounding border, lines, or outer shape need to change with it so the feature feels like part of the design rather than something added afterward.

Custom Shape Bottle Opener Coin

If the project is already going to use a custom shape, there’s a lot more freedom.

Badges, helmets, shields, anchors, animal heads, gears, and tools can all create places where an opener can fit naturally.

The goal isn’t to make the shape as unusual as possible. It’s to find one where the theme and function actually work together.

On a gear-shaped coin, for example, an opener built into the outer edge can make sense. A random cutout somewhere else probably won’t.

We usually look for open areas that can be used without sacrificing something important.

The main logo, a face, the center of a badge, or small lettering generally shouldn’t be cut away just to make room for it.

Opener Built Into the Artwork

This gives a designer the most freedom, but it also takes the most planning.

Instead of treating the opener as a separate hole, it becomes part of the artwork itself. Animal horns, an anchor opening, the jaw of a wrench, a gear gap, or the edge of a helmet can all work.

When done well, people notice the artwork first and the bottle opener second.

The key is not to force it. If an element has to be stretched or distorted just to make the function work, the design usually suffers.

That’s why this approach works best when the opener is considered from the sketch stage.

Want to Add a Bottle Opener to Your Challenge Coin?

Whether it’s for a military unit, a company, or another organization, adding a bottle opener gives it a practical use beyond the display case.

At VeperPins, we don’t just cut a hole into an existing design. We look at the logo, artwork, shape, and layout to find a way to work the opener in without letting it take over.

For this project, we made 50 shield-shaped hard enamel pins for Skagit Premier Soccer Club. Each pin measured 1.5 inches and kept the main details from the original design, including “MASTER OF THE PITCH,” the club name, the mountains, and three different-colored tulips. Each pin also had its own number from 1 to 50 laser engraved on the back.

Now, let’s take a look at how VeperPins brought this pin order from artwork to finished pieces.

Project Overview

Quantity

50 Pieces

Size

1.5 Inches

Shape

Custom Shield Shape

Pin Type

Hard Enamel

Metal Finish

Silver Metal

Attachment

Two Pin Posts

Numbering

Laser Engraved 1–50

Front Design of the Skagit Premier Pin

The front of the pin kept the main details of Skagit Premier’s original logo. The curved “MASTER OF THE PITCH” text sits at the top, with the mountains and three different-colored tulips in the center, and the club name below.

Because the pin is only 1.5 inches, the small lettering at the top and the mountain lines needed extra attention. At this size, very thin lines or tight spacing can easily look crowded, so we checked those details again during the artwork stage.

The front was made with hard enamel, with silver metal lines separating the color areas. The enamel colors followed the Pantone colors approved by the customer. After grinding and polishing, the finished surface came out smooth and close to the look they wanted.

Back Design

We used standard metal butterfly clutches on the back and added individual laser-engraved numbers from 1 to 50.

Skagit Premier originally wanted the numbers on the front, but since every pin needed a different number, that would have meant the full set couldn’t share the same mold. It also would have added extra cost.

After talking it over with the customer, we moved the numbers to the back instead. That way, the front design stayed the same and all 50 pins could be made from one mold. Once the pins were finished, we laser engraved the numbers 1 through 50 on the back.

Production and Quality Check

Once the artwork was approved, we moved on to mold making, enamel filling, plating, grinding, and polishing. On this hard enamel pin, the plating was done after the enamel filling, which is different from the process we normally use for soft enamel.

When the pins were finished, we first checked the small curved lettering at the top. At this size, those letters could easily lose definition if the spacing or metal lines were not clean enough. We also checked the mountains and tulips to make sure the thinner lines stayed separate and the enamel had not crossed into the wrong areas.

The polished surface and silver metal were checked for obvious scratches, uneven areas, or color problems, and we made sure both posts on the back were straight and secure.

The numbering was checked last. After engraving, we looked at each number to make sure it was clear and in the right position. Then we laid all 50 pins out in order from 1 to 50. That made it easy to see if a number was missing, repeated, or engraved incorrectly. Once the full sequence was confirmed, the pins were ready for packing.

The Finished Skagit Premier Soccer Pins

In the end, the project was completed successfully. All 50 Skagit Premier hard enamel pins were made according to the approved design, and the whole process—from artwork approval to production and delivery—took 15 days.

For numbered pin orders like this, confirming the number placement before production helps avoid unnecessary changes and extra cost.

At VeperPins, we aim to make custom enamel pins that are well made and reasonably priced. If your team or club is planning a similar project, feel free to send us your idea and requirements. We can review the design with you and help work out the best way to make it.

If you make jackets or you’re ordering custom logo patches for a brand, company, school, team, or club, you’ve probably noticed that patches show up on a lot of similar products. They may seem like a small detail, but they’re an easy way to add a logo, team emblem, name, or other identifier while giving different collections, departments, or events their own look.

Getting them right takes more than choosing a design you like. The fabric, placement, artwork size, and attachment method can all affect how the finished piece looks and wears.

So what should you look at when choosing custom patches for jackets? Here are the main things to consider if you want the final product to stand out from similar options on the market.

What Types of Patches Work Best on Different Jackets?

Different jackets vary in fabric, weight, and overall style, so the same patch won’t work equally well on all of them. Here’s a look at a few common jacket types and what tends to work best.

01 Denim

Denim is thick and structured, so embroidered, leather, and woven styles all work well on it. Smaller designs fit nicely on the chest, while larger artwork usually works better across the back. For a classic look, embroidery is an easy choice; for something more vintage, leather is a natural fit.

02 Varsity

The classic school and sports look makes chenille a great fit for large letters, numbers, and team names. It stands out from a distance and feels right at home on this style. For smaller logos, fine lettering, or detailed artwork, embroidery or woven badges are usually the better choice.

03 Bomber

Many bombers use nylon or polyester, which makes them lighter than denim or workwear. Large, heavy pieces can pull on the fabric, so woven designs or smaller embroidered options usually work better. The chest and upper sleeve are both practical placements.

04 Workwear

Visibility and durability matter most here. Company logos, employee names, job titles, and department details should be easy to read and clearly contrast with the fabric. Sewing works well for permanent use, while hook-and-loop backing makes sense when names or roles need to change.

05 Motorcycle & Club

Leather badges naturally match the rugged, vintage feel of motorcycle apparel, but every piece does not need to use the same material. Large club graphics on the back are often embroidered, while smaller leather designs work well on the chest or sleeves for names, ranks, and other identifiers.

06 Outdoor & Tactical

These garments often come with loop panels already built in, making hook-backed designs easy to add, remove, or swap. PVC, embroidered, and woven options can all work depending on the artwork. For rain, dirt, or rough outdoor use, water-resistant PVC, reflective details, or glow-in-the-dark effects are also worth considering.

Look at the Whole Jacket Before Placing Each Patch

If you’re using several patches on one jacket, plan the full layout first instead of designing each badge separately and figuring out where to place it later.

Start with the main focal point, such as a large back logo, team emblem, or club mark. Then decide whether you also need a name, number, flag, or other smaller details on the chest or sleeves. The main design should stand out first, while the other elements support it.

Try to keep the colors and overall style connected as well. The patches do not have to look exactly the same, but similar colors, fonts, borders, or line styles can make the finished jacket feel more consistent. If every patch uses a different color, shape, or style, the layout can start to feel too busy.

The sizes do not need to match either. A larger design on the back can act as the main feature, while names or sleeve patches stay smaller. Leaving some open space usually makes the important details easier to notice.

You also need to work around the actual structure of the jacket. Zippers, pockets, seams, and panel lines can all affect how much space you really have. It’s better to measure the usable area first, then adjust the size and placement so the design does not run into a zipper, cross a thick seam, or get covered by a pocket.

For embroidered or sewn-on patches, leave enough room for production and attachment too. A layout that looks good on a screen may sit differently once it is placed on the garment, so check the front, back, and sleeves together before approving the final design.

Check the Care Label Before Choosing a Backing

Once a patch is attached, it has to go through the same washing, drying, and everyday wear as the rest of the jacket. Before choosing Iron-On, Sew-On, or Hook-and-Loop, check the care label and fabric instructions first.

If the label says Do Not Iron, don’t heat-press it just because the patch has an Iron-On backing. FTC care-labeling rules also focus on whether the finished garment can be cared for safely, not just the fabric or patch on its own.

Heat settings aren’t one-size-fits-all either. Nylon, polyester, coated fabrics, and waterproof materials can all react differently to heat and pressure. Test a sample or hidden area first, then follow the backing supplier’s recommended temperature, time, and pressure.

Waterproof jackets need extra care with sewing. Stitching can puncture the waterproof layer, so some garments may need seam sealing afterward. Check the construction before sewing anything directly onto them.

If the patch needs to be changed often, Hook-and-Loop is usually the more practical option. It works especially well for workwear, outdoor gear, and uniforms.

Do a 1:1 Paper Test Before Bulk Production

A digital mockup can’t always show how a patch will look at full size on the actual jacket. Before moving into bulk production, print the design at its real dimensions, cut it out, and place it where you plan to attach it.

Check a few things:

• Can you read the text and see the logo clearly from a normal viewing distance?
• Does the size feel right for the jacket?
• Is there enough space around zippers, pockets, and seams?
• Does a sleeve design stay away from areas that bend a lot, like the elbow?
• If you’re using several patches, is there a clear visual hierarchy?
• Is there enough contrast between the design and the fabric?

A paper test is great for checking size and placement, but it won’t show the real thickness, texture, or feel of the finished patch. Fortunately, VeperPins can provide a free sample before bulk production, so you can check the actual result before moving forward.

Make the Patch Feel Like Part of the Jacket

A good patch shouldn’t look like something that was added at the last minute. It should feel like it belongs on the jacket from the start. Whether it’s a brand logo, team emblem, name, or club graphic, what really makes the difference is how well everything works together.

If you’re planning personalized patches for jackets, you can send your design to VeperPins. We’ve been making custom patches for more than 20 years, and our design team can help turn your idea into a finished piece that works in real production.

Custom patches can be a great way to promote a brand, build employee morale, or create products to sell. One of the most common questions we hear from new customers is: “How big should my patch be?”

There isn’t one fixed answer. The right size usually depends on the design itself, how it will be used, and the available budget. A detailed design from an artist may need to be 5 inches to show everything clearly, while a simple company logo may work perfectly well at 2 inches.

In this guide, VeperPins will show you how to measure the available space and decide which size works best for your design.

1. Measure the Placement Area First

Standard sizes are only a starting point. Left-chest designs often fall between 3 and 4.5 inches, but the usable space can vary quite a bit from one garment to another. Some shirts allow a 4 × 4-inch area, while others give you only 2 × 4 inches. Don’t choose a 3- or 4-inch patch simply because it’s going on the left chest.

Lay the shirt, hat, or bag flat and measure the usable width and height with a soft tape measure. Stay clear of pockets, zippers, and thick seams, since they can prevent even pressure during heat application. For a hat, measure the part of the front panel where the patch can sit flat—not the full width of the cap.

We also recommend an actual-size paper test. Print the artwork at 2.5 inches, 3 inches, or whatever size you’re considering, cut it out, and place it on the actual item. You’ll see right away if it hits a seam, extends past the flat area, or looks out of proportion.

Placement	Suggested Starting Size	What to Check
Hat Front	2–3″ wide × 1–2″ high	Measure the flat front-panel area first. A patch that is too tall may reach the brim or top seam.
Left Chest	2.5–4″	Leave enough space around pockets, zippers, and garment seams.
Sleeve	2.5–3.5″	Narrower sleeves usually have less usable width for the patch.
Backpack	3–5″	Measure the flat area between zippers, seams, and other construction details.
Jacket Back	8–12″	Larger sizes work well for detailed designs, but the patch should stay within the shoulder width.
Name Patch	4–5″ wide × 1–1.5″ high	Longer names may require more width or a smaller, simpler font.
Velcro Panel	Commonly 2×3″ or 2×4″	The finished patch must be the same size as or smaller than the actual loop panel.

2. Let the Smallest Detail Set the Minimum Size

Placement tells you how large a patch can be. The smallest element in the artwork tells you how small it can go. Start by deciding what has to stay, such as the brand name and main graphic, and what can be removed, such as a date, tagline, or decorative line.

The round patch below makes this easy to see. The large lettering across the top would still be readable at a smaller size. The real limits are the character’s eyes and hands, the numbers on each side, and the date along the bottom. Shrink it too far and the centers of the 8s and 9s may fill with thread, the black outlines around the face may run together, and the small lettering at the bottom will become hard to read.

The thick outer border and thinner inner border also take up room. Even if the outside diameter stays the same, a heavier border leaves less usable space for the character and surrounding text.

Don’t just ask whether the entire design fits. Check whether the smallest letters and shapes can still be stitched cleanly. If every detail needs to stay, the patch has to be large enough to keep those details clear. If the placement gives you less room, remove the date, shorten the wording, or simplify the character.

3. What Happens When You Make the Same Design in Different Sizes?

The biggest difference is how much of the artwork you can keep. Here’s one of our actual designs at 2, 3, and 4 inches.

This shield-shaped embroidered patch was originally made at 3 inches. At that size, all three lines of text, the small hearts, and both frogs fit without looking crowded. The lettering is also still readable.

At 2 inches, the small lettering and details in the frogs’ hands and feet no longer have enough room to stitch cleanly. We would remove two lines of text and some of the hearts, then keep “OoT,” “HAND IN HAND,” and larger frogs. The design contains less, but the finished piece is much easier to read.

The 3-inch version needs very little adjustment and is the most balanced size for this design. At 4 inches, the lettering and character details become clearer, but it may look too large on a hat, sleeve, or left chest. That size works better on a jacket or backpack.

The same embroidery file cannot simply be used at every size. Each version needs its own adjustments to the letter height, line thickness, spacing, and stitch count. The comparison image shows the difference in proportion; it is not displayed at actual size.

4. The Patch Type Affects How Small You Can Go

Different production methods handle small details differently. These are the minimum sizes we usually check first:

• With standard embroidery, bold uppercase letters should be at least 5 mm tall. Once they get close to 3 mm, the stitches may start running together. Thin lettering needs more room.
• Woven patches can handle smaller text. We recommend at least 2 mm for English letters and 4 mm for Chinese characters.
• Printing is a better fit for gradients, photos, and details that are too fine to create with individual threads.
• For chenille, letters and separate shapes should be at least 10 mm, with lines around 5 mm thick. Smaller text can be done with flat embroidery instead.
• Velcro is only the backing, so it will not make small lettering any clearer. The finished piece still needs to fit within the existing loop panel.

So, What Size Should Your Custom Patch Be?

For most left-chest, sleeve, and backpack designs, we would start at 3 inches. A simple logo can often go down to 2 or 2.5 inches. Several lines of text or a lot of small detail will usually push it up to 3.5 or 4 inches. Hat patches are generally 2 to 3 inches wide and 1 to 2 inches high. Jacket-back designs are much larger, often 8 to 12 inches.

Your custom patch maker should tell you when the artwork needs more room, not just accept the size on the order form. Send us the design and tell us where it will be used. We’ll tell you which size we would choose and what, if anything, should be simplified.